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Ways to Troubleshoot a Generator Alternator 1Place the car in park or neutral together with the emergency brake set. Open the hood. Attach a battery charger to your battery--red to red and black to black. Charge the battery fully. Inspect the inside and outsides of the battery cable connectors. Clean them with a battery cleaner tool, getting rid of all oxidation, rust and dirt car diagnostic software.2Turn the ignition key for the "On" position (not get started) and note the dash lights that have illuminated. Start out the automobile and see if any from the lights have remained on. If a light that stays on reads "Bat" or "Alt," you might have a low charging condition or perhaps a no charging situation within the alternator wiring circuit. If applicable, rent or obtain a trouble code scanner and trouble code book for the car, then comply with the directions for hook-up and evaluation. This may pinpoint the charging issue.3Turn the ignition key off and step as much as the engine compartment. Locate your alternator; use your owner's manual if unsure of its place. The majority of alternators sit straight below the power steering pump, plus a single belt or a serpentine belt is around its pulley. Use a vibrant shop light to inspect the belt condition. Appear for excess slack in the belt--if you'll be able to move the alternator pulley by hand, the belt has loosened up. Appear and really feel for cracks inside the belt or fluid that may well have dropped on it. An oily belt will slip and not charge appropriately. Appear to get a leak coming from the power steering pump straight above. A bad power steering pump seal will leak into the windings in the alternator and brief it out.4Use an automotive stethoscope or long-handled screwdriver to listen towards the alternator though the engine runs at idle. Listen for a "howling" or "grating" noise after you spot the stethoscope or screwdriver against the alternator case. A light humming sound is standard. A louder grating noise indicates bad alternator shaft bearings or races. See if the pulley wobbles. A wobbling pulley in conjunction with a grating noise confirms bad shaft bearings or races in the alternator.5Hook up a voltmeter for the car's battery. Location the positive (red) voltmeter clip on the good (red) battery terminal post, along with the black clip on the battery unfavorable (black) terminal post. Look in the reading displayed in charging volts Professional diagnositic tools. The charging volts should really range in between 14 and 15 volts. A drop below 13.8 volts indicates a problem together with the alternator armature and windings.6Hook up an ammeter for the battery, with all the engine off. Remove the wire from the terminal marked "B" on the alternator and connect it towards the unfavorable post on the ammeter. Connect the good lead on the ammeter to the "B" terminal on the alternator. Have an assistant start the engine and let it idle. The typical amp reading need to be 10 amps or less (seek the advice of your manual for the exact number). Have your assistant raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and turn on all of the accessories--high beams, air conditioning and heater to their highest settings. Read the ammeter. The amp draw ought to be 30 amps or much more. Any quantity less indicates a undesirable alternator.7Trace the substantial "B" wire coming from the alternator and discover any fuseable links along its path. Open the fuse links and verify for any blown fuses or melted fuse wire. Replace if necessary. Inspect the key fuse box panel, positioned in the engine compartment, glove box or side kick panel. Uncover any battery or charging fuses on the fuse diagram and replace any defective fuses.